Discussion:
Making drumheads from goat hides?
(too old to reply)
Alexander Sviridov
2005-08-11 15:26:37 UTC
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Hello!
I have two dried goat hides and I want to make drumheads of them.

I have found several ways to do it, but all of them are not for drums,
either for making parchment of prepare skin for tanning.

Maybe someone already did this and can explain working technology or
give a link?

For example - is usage of sodium sulphide ok?
Jim McGill
2005-08-12 16:50:51 UTC
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Alexander

Woof, that's an open ended question. First off, what kind of drum are
you making? Are the heads glued on or held on with ropes? Do you want to
mount the skins with or without hair?

I've put on a lot of goat heads on rope tensioned drums. First you wet
the skins, stretch them on a board, peg them down, and let them dry
flat. Then make a hoop that fits the drum shell. From there on you can
follow Dave Golber's directions on how to mount a Tupan head found at
www.phantomranch.net/folkdanc/articles/tapan.htm

For other kinds of drum heading look at /www.mimf.com/link2.htm under
Percussion.

Jim (if you want to contact me directly remove the capital letters from
my address)
Lawrence Lucier
2005-08-13 01:03:56 UTC
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Post by Jim McGill
Alexander
Woof, that's an open ended question. First off, what kind of drum are
you making? Are the heads glued on or held on with ropes? Do you want to
mount the skins with or without hair?
Hi Jim......I'm not the OP but I hope ya won't mind me butting in here
for a little advice. :-)
Post by Jim McGill
I've put on a lot of goat heads on rope tensioned drums. First you wet
the skins, stretch them on a board, peg them down, and let them dry
flat.
I have a djembe(rope tensioned with dual hoops) from which I have
removed the goatskin head. About 25% of the skin had split,
horizontally with respect to the hoops, just before it enters the hoops.
Right now I have had the skin soaking water for about a week in the
hopes of reattaching it.....any thoughts on whether I will be able to
sucessfully restreach the skin to fit again or is it a lost cause?


Failing to reattach the particular skin mentioned above, I'm also
wondering about using a commercial plastic drumhead.....if I can get the
proper sized diameter head, any thoughts on what can be expected
installing such a head with the djembes' orginal rope tensioned setup?

Any suggestions related to the above topic would be much
appreciated....thanks! :-)
Jim McGill
2005-08-15 15:44:27 UTC
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Lawrence

I doubt you're going to save that head. Once you get a split started it
acts to focus the forces and extend the split.

Plastic heads on rope tensioned drums usually don't work. The tension
generated by the ropes is a lot smaller than what the plastic heads
expect. I've tried it on Tupans and just broken the wooden rims that the
ropes attach to.

If you're looking for a new skin djembe head take a look at Mideast
Manufacturing's site (they're in Florida). That's where I get my heads
and I'm very satisfied by the quality and the service. I've had some
fail, but that was always my own fault.

Jim

standard disclaimer - I have no stake in Mideast, they've just gone out
of their way to be helpful (Overnight FedExed a head to Seattle once to
meet a deadline for example) and have a quality product.
Alexander Sviridov
2005-08-15 20:29:33 UTC
Permalink
Thank you for links! I'm interested in tapan, but it's definitly not
the best thing for first try :)

I forgot to say about kind of drum. I want to make a middle east-style
frame drum, similar to daf, tar or even dayreh.

Skin should be smooth (surely without hair), and have to be glued or
nailed to rim, I think.
About rim: I already bought ash scalewood for it. Is there any secrets
on gluing rim of scale wood?

So any advices on preparing skin or building rim are welcome.

(One thing: I live in Moscow, Russia, so it's a bit difficult for me to
bye something in Florida or elsewhere in US :))

P.S
On rope-tensioned drums: I have a rope-tensioned drum, named 'doul'
(Armenian). Here is foto:
Loading Image...

The rope is 5 mms thick, and it is not very easy to tune this drum. But
it sounds very well.
Jim McGill
2005-08-16 17:08:03 UTC
Permalink
Alexander

Not Moscow, Idaho? :-)

I've made a few Celtic bodhrans so I can give you some advise. First
thing is what's your glue situation? If you can get yellow carpenter's
glue, it's the easiest to work with, but epoxy will work too.

Don't know what "scalewood" is, I use 2 ply plywood and bend laminate.
Principle is the same. Wrap, glue, clamp, and finish. A belt sander will
help a lot, but a handplane will work.

Cut 2 circles the size of the shell you want (minus the wall thickness
if you're feeling fussy) or find a cylindrical something that is the
right diameter. Wax it good to prevent sticking.

Cut or sand a long scarf on one end of the first strip of wood (maybe 10
cm). Now wrap the wood around the form, mark where it overlaps itself
and put a similar scarf on the other end. Now put glue on where it
overlaps. Put a couple old bicycle inner tubes around the shell and
tighten them up with a piece of scrap wood (this are the clamps). Let
dry and continue doing that until you've got you shell as thick as you
want. Sand and finish to taste (make sure it's water proof - see below).

Don't know the tanner / leather supply situation in Moscow, but there
must be some around. What you want is a circle of hard tanned skin
("rawhide" works) that is about 10 cm larger in diameter than the shell.
You don't want suede or treated leather, it's too soft. Goat is best,
it's the strongest. Calf is ok though a bit thick and sheep is very
iffy, tends to be soft and tear. I've actually seen a nice Egyptian def
made with engineering mylar for the head.

Easiest way of attaching the head to the shell is furniture nails, which
are those ornamental round headed nails like you see on old sofas. Soak
the skin in warm water until it's limp. drape it over the shell and get
it as well centered as possible. Start putting in nails along one edge,
I tend to use a decorative wavy pattern, stretching the head as you go.
Let dry and you've got a drum. It will inevitably be a bit off center,
but this is folk work. To make them more even, you tack the head down,
let dry, put a second layer of nails around that are even, remove the
tacks and trim the head back. You can cover the trimmed edge with a
decorative wood band if you want (look closely at a traditional drum,
you can still see the temporary tack marks at the lower edge of the shell).

If you want to get fancy, you can put an internal rim with threaded
tighteners on it that push up against the inside of the head and allow
you to tune it. You can also put rings or zills around the edge if you
want that sound. If you're going to hold it in one hand while playing,
you'll want to put either a thumb hole through the side of the shell or
cut a rounded notch so you can hold it comfortably.

Good luck

Jim

Lawrence Lucier
2005-08-15 23:21:24 UTC
Permalink
Post by Jim McGill
Lawrence
I doubt you're going to save that head. Once you get a split started it
acts to focus the forces and extend the split.
Bummer! Oh well maybe I can use it for skinning a smaller drum if I get
or make one.....
Post by Jim McGill
Plastic heads on rope tensioned drums usually don't work. The tension
generated by the ropes is a lot smaller than what the plastic heads
expect. I've tried it on Tupans and just broken the wooden rims that the
ropes attach to.
Bummer #2! <grin>
Post by Jim McGill
If you're looking for a new skin djembe head take a look at Mideast
Manufacturing's site (they're in Florida). That's where I get my heads
and I'm very satisfied by the quality and the service. I've had some
fail, but that was always my own fault.
Thanks for the information, Jim.....your comments are much appreciated! :-)
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